Archive for Motorparts

Winter Driving Safety Tips

26th November 2014 / / No comments

Winter-car

Baton down the hatches because it’s about to get chilly! Forecasters have warned that Ireland is facing its coldest winter in years, with sub-zero temperatures, polar gales and heavy snowfall expected to sweep across the country over December, January and February.

That’s obviously going to impact on driving conditions and your car. With that in mind it’s worth asking yourself whether you’re prepared for any winter emergencies. We’ve prepared a checklist for both practical and essential items to have in your car should the winter conditions get the best of your vehicle.

 

Winter Driving Safety  – Practicals

 

Blanket / Gloves: Should your car break down in the back of beyond, you might want to conserve fuel and battery power (if you still have any that is). Keep a blanket and gloves tucked away in the boot and stay warm while you wait for help to arrive.

Shovel: Even a small folding shovel will do the trick if you get wedged in by snow.

Wind-up phone charger: If the battery in your car and phone is dead, and you’re stranded in the middle of nowhere, a wind-up charger might just turn out to be one of the soundest purchases you ever made.

 

Winter Driving Safety  – Essentials

 

Warning Lights: Poor visibility during the winter months make road-side break downs that bit more hazardous. A Warning Triangle at least increases your visibility when pulled over.

Snow Socks: Give your car extra grip in snow and ice. Light and easy to fit. Can be kept in the car when not in use. Available in 5 sizes, these snow socks fit hundreds of different tyres. Fits on the cars drive wheels.

De-Icer: Essential and self-explanatory. Can also be used in emergencies to de-frost frozen car parts.

Ice Scraper: Stating the obvious…

Jump Leads: Battery failure is the most common cause of breakdowns and the likelihood of that happening increases during the winter months. Be prepared.

Hi-Vis Vest: In a scenario where you might be required to carry out some road-side repairs having a Hi-Vis vest is essential, especially when doing so in difficult-to-see winter conditions.

Torch: Essential if you need to get under the hood in the dark.

Screen Wash: As well as removing dirt, grime and insect deposits, Screen Wash also helps prevent freezing.

 

Improving Your Cars Winter Performance

 

winter_car

Winter Tyres: A complete new set of winter tyres (where the rubber is optimized to stay flexible during cold snaps as opposed to regular tyres which turn hard and slippery) might sound expensive. However, in reality, if you spend a lot of time on the road during the winter months it’s a worthwhile investment. And besides, while you’re driving around on the winter tyres, the regular set isn’t being used and worn down.

 

Check your battery: While it’s always advisable to have a professional check your battery, there are a few ways even a novice can carry out a routine check and maintenance. Look out for corrosion on posts and cable connections and scrape away where necessary. Give the surfaces a clean and retighten all connections. If you can remove the battery caps check the fluid level monthly.

 

Wiper Blades / Fluid Levels: Rubber cladded wiper blades are best suited for scraping ice from the windscreen. In addition to this, ensure you have refilled your windshield washer reservoir with wiper solvent and keep plenty on hand. You can really go through it in large quantities during the winter months.

 

Bulbs / Lighting:  Replace any fading or burnt out bulbs while also regularly removing grime from the lenses.

 

Brakes: Finally, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, check your brakes.

 

Category: Car Articles, Motoring Tips / Tags: , , ,

Why buying car parts online makes sense

15th November 2014 / / No comments
buying car parts online

After nearly two years of research and development motorparts.ie is finally online and open for business.

Having an online outlet has both its own set of benefits and drawbacks where the consumer is concerned, but generally the positives far outweigh the negatives.

The drawbacks for consumers mostly centre on the lack of personal service offered online and the ease and expertise that comes with face-to-face interactions. There’s an unfamiliarity when buying online.

However, having been in the retail business ourselves for over 25 years we’re committed to offering that same level of personal service and expertise but with all the added benefits that come with shopping online.

Benefits of Buying Car Parts Online

So, what are the benefits? In an age where more and more people are hanging onto their cars for longer, and the internet has allowed for the easy and widespread sharing of information, thus making DIY’ing easier, there are many.

These include:

  1. Buying online saves considerable money
  2. The consumer can compare prices online before buying
  3. There is unquestionably a wider selection of parts online than in bricks and mortar stores Consumers have access to more information about each parts
  4. Buying online is about convenience and saving time
  5. There are certain products that are particularly suited to purchasing online. They include:

Mirrors: A part that tends to get damaged more often than other components, mirrors are often quite expensive when sourced from main dealers. The fact that they are relatively easy to install and a greater range of higher-spec mirrors that improve both the appearance and performance of your car can be found online for considerably less money makes them an ideal item for purchasing on the web.

Lights: Like mirrors, light units can be an expensive product to purchase from retail stores. And that’s if you’re lucky enough to find a store that does stock model specific lights, as opposed to a universal part. Basically, your best bet of sourcing a model specific light unit at a reasonable price is online!

Cabin Air & Oil Filters: Cabin Air Filters generally require replacing every 30,000 miles or two years. Again, installation is relatively straight forward and online you will find a much wider choice at more reasonable prices.

Oxygen Sensor: Another small but expensive part that lends itself to purchasing online. Significant savings to be had, especially considering that this part might require installation by a mechanic if you don’t have the necessary tools to complete the job yourself.

Floor Mats and Liners: You obviously don’t need any professional assistance fitting a new floor mat so they make for particularly good online purchases. You’ll find a wider selection online so if you have a specific colour or material in mind you’ll more than likely find it here.

Batteries: Buying a high quality, long-life battery is always a smart move, particularly if you primarily use the car for short, stop/start journeys (the battery in these instances is rarely given an adequate chance to fully charge). Again, the lower operating costs of an online business means that you can save more money on high quality batteries – and with that save yourself a lot of future hassle.

Spark Plugs: Replacing spark plugs at fairly regular intervals is important if you want your car to continue running smoothly and increase fuel efficiency. Every 30,000 to 100,000 miles or as needed is the recommended usage. Unlike some of the jobs listed here there is a moderate level of difficulty in replacing the spark plugs yourself. However, with a few tools and some online research it’s eminently achievable and a worthwhile endeavour. You’ll find a far wider range of spark plugs online.

Engine Coolant and Transmission Fluid: Required every two years or 24,000 miles. Buy in bulk and save on cost and delivery.

Tips when buying car parts online

Research: Purchasing some items will require some research on your part. It’s always advisable to consult the car manual or manufacturer website to find out exactly what type of part a vehicle needs. Some may offer exact part numbers, and others may have a specific description.

Stock up: Bulk buy on parts that need to be replaced often or break easily – this will not only save you money on the items themselves but also on delivery costs.

Category: Motoring Tips / Tags:

Buying a Second Hand Car Checklist

21st October 2014 / / No comments
buying a car checklist

Following on from our recent blog and the theme of buying second hand parts, we’ve decided to put together a check-list of important points to consider when buying a used car.

Checking the Car’s Exterior

Is the car on level ground? This is important in order to allow you to properly check the tyres and any sagging issues there may be.

Inspect the paint job: Make sure you give the cars paint job a thorough going-over. Is Rust spots, dents and scratches are obviously undesirable, and in the case of rust spots could later lead to further issues. Roughness and / or unevenness is a potential indicator of previous use of masking tape or a poorly executed paint job to mask over these blemishes.

Boot-iful: What condition is the boot in? Tread carefully where there is evidence of rust or leakage.

Tyre Check: Tyres on a used vehicle should ideally be matched and evenly worn. Uneven wear can sometimes be attributed to knackered steering and suspension parts. Always worth checking the spare tyre too to ensure that it’s a full spare and not a cheap filler that will serve little to no purpose.

You’ve been framed: This one can sometimes be difficult to spot, but it’s definitely one of the most important things on this checklist as the frame is an integral safety feature. Collisions with faulty frames are particularly dangerous. Look out for clamp marks (i.e. holes or gashes) as a sing of previous damage. Uneven paint jobs (i.e. paint on rear / front headlamps) may also give away a vehicles bumpy history (pun intended). Remember, the gaps between body panels should always be of a consistent width. Door’s, boots or hoods that don’t close and seal properly is strong evidence that the vehicle has been involved in a series accident.

Get down and dirty: If possible try and inspect underneath the car (preferably with it safely raised). Check for black spots or rust on the exhaust system as both indicate leaking. Rub your fingers along the exhaust – if you find greasy grime you’ve got a problem. Get the car running too and check for white vapour. If it’s emitted in warm conditions there’s issues.

Under the Hood

Check for damage: Dents? Rust? Beware! Look for the VIN (vehicle identification number) where the hood joins the fender. No sigh of it? That’s a tell-tale sign that the fender has been replaced.

Hoses and Belts: Important to inspect all hoses and belts for cracks. Radiator hoses should be neither soft nor sticky. Hoses with noticeable swelling where connected to the radiator or engine will need immediate replacing. Might as well check for leaks around hose clamps while you are there.

Engine Check: Here you should have your eyes peeled for evidence of leaks, stains and corrosion. Any evidence of these could be indicative of a gasket leak, which could potentially lead to some very expensive repair costs further down the line. All engine belts should look as good as new. Replacing old belts which can easily snap can prove costly.

Filler Cap: Does the oil filler cap have a foamy residue inside it? If so then you could be forced to deal with a faulty / leaking head gasket. And if that is the case then you might be best of holding onto your money. What sort of condition is the overflow jar in? If you find grimy brown coolant than its possible that it’s never been flushed or, again, there is a leaky gasket at play.

Dipstick: Always worth checking the transmission fluid. Pull the dipstick out and inspect the fluid. It should ideally be pink or light red. If dark (and this is sometimes the case with older cars), it should never look or smell burnt. Best to do this check with the engine on!

Timing Belt: The timing belt is the most important belt in a car’s engine, and therefore the most expensive to replace. CHECK IT!

What about inside the car?

Keeping Up(holstery) Appearances: Pretty obvious, and easy to spot – rips, stains, tears, all undesirable scuff marks.

Air Conditioning: OK, so here in Ireland the air-con might not get nearly as much use as we’d all like, but you should still make sure it’s working perfectly.

Mileage: This one really goes without saying. Check the odometer. And if there is any lingering doubt, make sure to have the seller put in writing a confirmation of the correct mileage.

Lights Out: How does the car function when it’s not moving? Parking sensors etc should always be given the once over.

Test Drive

Brakes: This one is really stating the obvious, but the best way to learn about any car is to take it for a test drive. And one of the most important things to check is the brakes. Press down firmly to decelerate hard in order to accurately judge the state of the brakes (30mph is a good speed to try this test). There should be no vibrations from the brake pedal. Also keep an ear out for noises such as squealing. If the brakes are throbbing you may be looking at having to replace the rotors or pads. There should be no swerving. If it is swerving then the brake calipers or steering components could be worn.

Category: Car Articles, Knowledge Base, Motoring Tips / Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Why Oil Changes are Important

15th October 2014 / / No comments
lifetime engine oil

What is an oil change?

The engine in your car works hard. Or more specifically the components that make up the engine work hard. There’s an awful lot of grinding, friction and heat going on under that hood. Your engine oil is the lubricant that keeps subsequent wear and tear in check. But, if left for too long without changing, that oil starts to accumulate dirt, grit and gunk, which in turn increases the effects of the wear and tear. Think of the engine and oil change as a sick patient getting a blood transfusion.

Why is it important?

Thermal Breakdown: Car engines function at very high temperatures which in turn can frequently cause oil to go through what’s called a ‘Thermal Breakdown’. This chemical reaction basically amounts to a serious degradation of the engine oil. This in turn affects the oils ability to flow smoothly and properly coat the engines components. The subsequent friction severely shortens the lifespan of an engine.

Engine Gunk: Engine combustion inevitably leads to your car’s engine collecting a substantial build-up of carbon deposits. This gunk, which collects on the pistons, cylinders and valves, eventually hardens and, if left unattended, can limit the amount of air and fuel the valves let in. This can lead to less efficient burning of fuel and possible overheating, which in turn leads to oil stress.

Corrosion: Aside from gunk, engine oil also collects water, dust and dirt. This debris gradually corrodes engine components if not removed. Fresh oil helps flush out these unwanted fragments.

Congested Filters: Changing the oil should always be accompanied by a changing of the filter too. Filters serve an important purpose – preventing sludge from getting to the engine. Failure to change the filters regularly leads to an unhealthy congestion of particles such as dirt, degraded oil and combustion sludge. That means less good quality oil makes its way to your engine. And the less oil your engine receives the worse of your engine will be. “

Leaks: From time to time gas or coolant can leak into oil, contaminating it in the process and eventually damaging the engine. There is no way to know whether this is happening short of having the oil changed.

car oil change

Money Saver:

This is the most important thing that you will do to ensure your engine lasts the distance. Regular oil changes are recommended every 3 months or 3000 miles (whichever comes first) so learning how to do it yourself will not only save you money in the here and now, it will also prevent further more expensive costs occurring further down the line.

How do I change my car’s oil?

Drain the Oil: Lift the car, and let it heat up. This will get the oil warm and churned, which in turn will help it drain more easily. If the engine is hot, let it cool down for AT LEAST 30 minutes. Remove the oil plug underneath the car (it’s a large bolt on the oil pans bottom). A complete drain usually takes about two minutes.

Remove and replace the Oil Filter: The easiest way to locate the oil filter is to look at your new filter and search for a similar part. Before removing the filter make sure you have your bucket / oil pan positioned below. Ensure the rubber gasket ring comes off too, otherwise your new filter won’t get a sufficient seal on the engine. Smear some new oil on the gasket ring of the new filter and thread it on. Make sure it’s tight.

Adding New Oil: Refill the engine using a funnel and recap the bottle before you toss it into the recycling bin. Check with a dipstick if you’re not sure if you have put enough in. Once satisfied, screw the cap back on tight.

Run the engine: Start the car and run the engine for 5 minutes. This brings the engines oil pressure levels back to where they need to be, while also allowing you to check if there are any leaks by the oil plug and filter. If there are leaks or spots, clean them, and tighten the plug as needed.

lifetime engine oil

When changing my car oil, what do I need?

Category: Knowledge Base, Motoring Tips / Tags: , ,

How to Polish Your Car like a Pro

15th August 2014 / / No comments
polishing your car

It’s a universal truth, an occurrence as routine as the sun rising in the morning and setting in the evening. And sure enough, as night follows day, your newly bought car will lose a substantial amount of value as soon as she is driven from the lot.

But just because your motor has depreciated in value doesn’t mean its shiny exterior needs to depreciate also. It’s possible – even when it’s not a new motor, to give your vehicle a gleaming finish. And we’re not talking about forking out an entire paycheck on equipment or a professional shop-job.

Wheeling – Car Polish Technique

‘Wheeling’ is a process of heating the paint’s clear coat with a rotating wheel until it reduces down to a sticky liquid that fills in and dispels blemishes.

To avoid lasting damage to the paint, you should only utilize this method once a year and wax your car every couple of months. Here’s how you get a perfect finish:

polishing your car

(1) Start by washing your car by hand in a shaded area. Rinse the vehicle thoroughly but do not dry it.

Technique Tip: Wheeling is a messy process, so cover items (such as other cars, pets, and nearby walls) that you don’t want to clean afterward. Use softer pads and polishing compounds on dark-colored cars, as they are especially sensitive to swirl marks. More-aggressive compounds and pads can be used on lighter hues.

(2) Place a clean, slightly damp pad on the polishing wheel and put a moderate amount of compound on one body panel. Spread the polish with the wheel, using a medium speed. The key is to keep the spinning pad parallel to the car’s surface to avoid swirl marks. Apply constant pressure and work back and forth over the entire surface of the panel. As the clear coat heats up and the paint becomes warm to the touch, scratches will begin to disappear. When the compound and water are thrown aside and absorbed by the foam pad, the brightened finish will become visible. Stop. Move to the next panel and repeat.

Technique Tip: Keep the area wet and use just enough polish for each panel.

(3) As necessary, stop and rinse off the foam pad with a hose or a power washer to prevent it from becoming saturated or gummed up with compound.

Technique Tip: The outer edge of the pad moves faster, generating more friction than the center, and it usually carries less polish—a recipe for a burned finish. So be especially careful around intricate trim areas, such as washer nozzles, mirrors, emblems, and complex bumper contours that can be polished using only the outer edge of the pad.

(4) Wash and rinse the car again by hand when finished, including the door, trunk, and hood jambs. Dry thoroughly

(5) Applying a coat of wax to the paint will help mask swirl marks and cover up most remaining surface imperfections. Mount a soft foam pad on an orbital sander and apply an approximate 60:40 mix of paste wax and a fine finishing polish onto the pad. Use the sander at a medium speed to spread the wax onto the vehicle in a back-and-forth motion and with light but steady pressure. Leave just enough of a waxy haze to be visible when dry.
waxing your car
(6) While the wax is drying, clean the other areas of the car (windows, interior, etc.) and then remove the wax with a microfiber towel—bath towels or rags may mar the surface. Apply touch-up paint to chips and any lingering scratches as needed. Move the car into sunlight for a final inspection. Crack a cold one and enjoy.
Note: Polish process is for modern, multistage clear-coat finishes only.

 

Required tools (suggested brand)

Category: Knowledge Base / Tags: , , , , ,
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